A Wondrichful Event

It has been far too long since my last post . . . my apologies. My editor at Northwest Palate magazine resigned, I have taken over the position for the time being, and have since been mired in a morass of deadline-driven activities.

So it was a pleasing relief a few weeks ago when I attended a spirited mid-morning event at Portland's Teardrop Cocktail Lounge, hosted by the newly formed Oregon Bartender's Guild (the only independent bartender's guild in the country). David Wondrich, author of the fascinating recent book Imbibe!, was in town and would be preparing and presenting a series of cocktails from his book, created by the seminal and mysterious 19th Century mixologist, Dr. Jerry Thomas.

Thomas, for those who don't know, was perhaps the most flamboyant bartender—certainly the most famous one—of his century. He helped legitimize craft bartending as a credible liquid culinary profession, and left to posterity a variety of tasty cocktail recipes that have mostly been forgotten in today's lamentable flood tide of vodka-and-muddled-fruit based abominations called such-and-such "martini".

Here in Portland, a thriving center of craft distilling, there is also a vibrant community of creative bartenders crafting intriguing cocktails . . . so the room was full of the regional bartenderatti (and the sun was shining, a rarity this spring!).

Wondrich gave a fascinating introduction to what we do and don't know about Thomas—who seems a larger than life figure. Then Wondrich, whipped out his vintage cocktail-making accoutrements and and had at it with the other assembled experts.

Jeffrey Morgenthaler, of Bel Ami in Eugene, and Daniel Shoemaker of Teardrop together concocted Thomas's Japanese Cocktail--from aged Cognac, Teardop-house-made orgeat, and Jeffrey's own Boker's Bitters. It was a fantastic drink, with depth and flavor that was surprising. I'd never had one, and given the specialness of the ingredients, I will never have one that is quite the same.

Other drinks followed: the Improved Whiskey Cocktail (that I now make at home), a Stone Fence cocktail made by Lance Mayhew, a Buck and Breck crafted by Alyson Dykes of Teardop (using Remy Martin VSOP Cognac and Argyle sparking wine), and a Coffee Cocktail made by Kevin Ludwig, of the soon-to-open Beaker and Flask. This latter is not technically a cocktail, since it has no bitters, and is not made of coffee. So go figure how it came to be so delicious!

All in all, it was a very tasteful way to spend a Saturday!

P.S., after that great event, my wife and I went and bought a new car. Now, would we have done that if we hadn't spent the earlier part of the day . . . imbibing?

Photos: Above: David Wondrich, author of Imbibe!, extolling the virtues of Jerry Thomas. Middle: cocktail cravers crowd in to see Wondrich make the Blue Blazer, a spectacular juggling of flaming liquids between two cups. Below: Kevin Ludwig making his ambrosial Coffee Cocktail.