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January 2008

January 14, 2008

Bad Labels = Bad Wine?

Penetration_front_labelIt's just a working hypothesis, but I'm beginning to think that the design quality of the label on the bottle is a good indicator of the taste quality of the wine in the bottle.

Here in the Northwest there is an abundance of small and undercapitalized wineries. Often, the people who own these wineries also have their own particular ideas of what constitutes good marketing, branding, and design imagery, and since it's their dollars, they insist on creating their own vision of a wine label. How else to account for the presence of a black and white dancing dragon on one label, or a mini-skirted lass suggestively astride a wine barrel on another label--let alone wines with brand names such as "Missionary, "Dominatrix," "Virgin," "Foreplay," and--yes, these are all for real--"Penetration"? One wonders where the TTB is on names such as these.

Interestingly, most of the wines that sport these tasteless (whether design tasteless or message tasteless) labels turn out to be big losers in blind tastings . . . though they are undoubtedly big winners at food and wine shows (can't you just hear the dudes laughing over their bottle of Penetration as they "taste" the wine at any of the raucous "wine and food" festivals around the Northwest?).

Some badly designed labels are sincere: they reflect an owner's desire to express a brand image with little financial resources to execute the design and no real ability to understand that the design they have is so poorly done as to turn off a large segment of potential buyers. With all else being equal on the wine shop shelves, the wine label that looks the best will attract more buyers at the expense of the label that looks bad--but some owners have neither the resources nor knowledge to create a label design of competitive quality.

But other labels are so purposefully designed to appeal to questionable tastes that I wonder whether the owners have any interest in wine at all. Rather, they have figured out a marketing scheme that attracts prurient attention, gets people drunk enough to not care whether the wine is any good or not, and to giddily think the overt sexual innuendo is "fun" and "cute." In the end these wineries sell a lot of wine. . . wine that in my tasting experience is substandard . . . so why should the wineries care that their marketing is crass--they're making money.

There's a market for everything, even vulgarity.

Anyone who knows me knows I am no prude (far from it!), but using bad taste to sell bad wine offends me.

January 09, 2008

Thanks, TIME, for Ignoring the Northwest

While we've been writing about the craft distilling movement for two years or so (and those of us in Oregon have been living it for, oh, about 20 years) TIME magazine finally took note of the trend with a story entitled "Local Spirits" in its January 14, 2008 issue.

Good for them for noticing.

Of course, their story had a nearly total east coast bias, completely ignoring the burgeoning craft distilling scene in the Northwest . . . where there is a critical mass of artisan producers that far outweighs the states TIME called out in their story.

Oh, but wait . . . that's not strictly true. There is a Northwest angle to their story--but the writer and her editors didn't know it. One of the four "Haute Hooch" products that they highlighted was actually distilled in the Northwest: Idaho, to be exact, even though the brand owner (and therefore the location listed on the label) is in California. Square One Vodka is actually contract distilled by Distilled Resources, Inc., with offices in Ketchum and a production plant in Rigby, Idaho. The so-called "California" vodka is really a Northwest product.

The Northwest has long been a center of craft distilling. Portland's Clear Creek Distillery was one of the earliest in the nation, and still one of the best and most widely-known of the hands-on distillers. But, they weren't mentioned. Nor were the over 20 other distillers in the Northwest.

Even California, a vital home of craft distilling, was given only a glancing nod. No reference to Anchor Distilling, Hanger One, or Germain-Robin, all clear leaders on the national scene.

Oh well. Big national magazines can hardly be expected to get far-away regional stories right!